PROFESSIONAL FIBREGLASS POOL INSTALLATION GUIDE

1. DIGGING

Mark the excavation borders 25–50 cm larger than the pool on all sides. Fibreglass pools are narrower at the bottom and wider at the top, with the widest part being the coping/lip. Always refer to the pool drawing for exact dimensions.

DEPTH
Excavation depth = pool depth + insulation thickness + concrete base thickness + patio thickness (if paving is laid over the pool edge).

Example:
For a 1.55 m deep pool: 1.55 m (pool) + 100 mm insulation + 150 mm concrete + 50 mm slabs = 1.85 m total depth

TRENCH
From the nearest pool corner to the pump and filter location, dig a 400 mm x 400 mm trench for pipework. Use the shortest and straightest route possible.

SKIMMER(S)
Skimmers can be installed anywhere on the pool except on the steps side. Ideally, position them as close as possible to the pump and filter.
Required space:
• 50 cm behind the pool
• 60 cm width
• 80 cm depth

WASTE PIPE
The pool is equipped with a waste pipe from the filter, mainly used for backwashing. This water must be directed to a suitable outlet such as: a manhole, a soakaway, pool drainage system, or landscaped areas. Keep this pipe run as short as possible. Long runs (10 m or more) require larger-diameter pipes.

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2. CONCRETE BASE

Install a concrete base 150–200 mm thick, reinforced with single or double steel mesh (double reinforcement is recommended for soft or wet ground).

The surface must be flat, especially around the edges. Minor imperfections of a few millimetres are acceptable. The key point is that the pool top will mirror the concrete level beneath it. If imperfections are larger, adjust the insulation sheets.

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3. INSULATION

Lay rigid, closed-cell insulation boards on top of the concrete base. The recommended material is XPS insulation or PIR boards with sufficient compressive strength. Additional insulation reduces heat loss and lowers heating costs. We recommend 100 mm insulation on all sides.

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4. DRAINAGE

Lay a perforated drainage pipe in a loop around the insulation and cover it with pea shingle. Install a vertical twin-wall pipe (min. 300 mm diameter) to accommodate a sump pump. Best practice is to position the pump below the concrete base level for better control of activation height.

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5. POOL PLACEMENT

The pool requires lifting equipment (HIAB, telehandler, crane) to lower it into the excavation. Pools must be lifted from the four lifting eyes at the top only.

6. STEPS AND LEDGE SUPPORT

Steps and ledges must be properly supported to prevent flexing. Cut insulation pieces to fit beneath the steps and support them using rigid blocks. The fit must be tight. Expansion foam may be used only to secure blocks in position, not for structural gaps.

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7. PLUMBING

Refer to the separate plumbing diagram. While there are standard layouts, every installation is unique, and adjustments may be required on site.

8. BACKFILLING

Always add water to the pool before backfilling, typically 300–400 mm (one step) at a time. This balances pressure on both sides of the pool shell. Water weighs approx. 1 tonne per cubic metre, while concrete weighs twice as much – therefore, the water level must always be higher than the backfill level.

Use a dry sand-and-cement mix, applying it evenly in layers. Never backfill above the water level. At the end of each day, lightly hose the backfill to help settle any voids. Backfilling is normally completed in 3–4 stages over 2–4 days. Allow each layer to set a bit before adding the next. 2 layers are usually safe to do within a single day.

Dry mix allows larger volumes to be placed compared to wet concrete. Increase the water level by another 300–400 mm and repeat until complete. The excavation usually results in approx. 200 mm of concrete surround. Use boards positioned 200 mm away from the insulation to pour concrete in layers, moving them progressively around the pool.

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